Know the different types of gold:
The difference between solid gold, gold alloy, gold fill, vermeil, and gold plate, explained:
24K solid gold is made from 99.99% pure gold. It has a bright, warm tone but it is prone to scratching and bending due to the soft nature of gold.
Gold alloys like 8K-23K gold are created when pure gold is melted and mixed with other metals to reduce cost, increase durability, and alter the color. Adding various metals to solid gold such as copper, silver, palladium, nickel and others can create an alloy that is more resistant to scratches, bending, snapping denting, etc., which make it a popular choice for jewelry prone to wear and tear such as rings and bracelets. The most common gold blends in the US are 10K, 14K and 18K. The lower the amount of gold content, the cheaper and more durable the jewelry. It will also have less of the signature warm yellowy gold look.
Colored gold such as rose gold is created with the addition of copper to pure gold, which gives off a pinkish tint. Similarly, white gold contains more silver and palladium and, in some cases, is also dipped in rhodium to give it a bright and silvery almost white appearance.
Gold fill (GF) is a layer of gold alloy that is bonded to a metal core. The core is usually made from brass or copper (sometimes silver). The requirement for an item to be stamped as “GF” or gold-filled in the United States is that the karat gold on the outside of the core must be equivalent to at least 5% of the total weight of the item. So if a copper chain is gold filled and weighs 100 grams, at least 5 grams bonded to the outside must be gold alloy or pure gold. Gold fill is a much more durable and longer-lasting alternative to gold plated or gold vermeil jewelry. With proper care, gold filled jewelry can last for decades without fading because the layer of gold is anywhere from 15 to 25 times thicker than gold electroplated jewelry.
Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is also known as gilded silver or silver-gilt. Jewelry made from gold vermeil is made out of sterling silver and electroplated in gold. The US Code of Federal Regulations indicates that for an item to be marked as vermeil, it must be plated with gold of at least 10K fineness and be at least 2.5 microns thick. (Note: There are 1000 microns in one millimeter.) However, many incorrectly refer to gold plate over sterling silver as “vermeil” even if it is not 2.5 microns thick. While the gold does wear off from the base of vermeil jewelry over time, you can bring it to your local jeweler to have it re-plated.
Gold plated jewelry, “heavy gold plated” jewelry, and “gold electroplate” are all terms which are recognized by the United States Federal Trade Commission but are not always properly labelled or followed by online sellers, especially internationally. “Gold plated” jewelry must be at least 0.5 microns thick to meet FTC regulations, whereas “heavy gold plated” jewelry must be at least 2.5 microns thick. Anything below 0.5 microns thick is considered “gold electroplated” jewelry, even though most, if not all gold plated jewelry is electroplated. The electroplating process involves immersing a metal component in a “bath” with dissolved gold metal salt and applying an electric current. The gold metal salt follows the electric current and evenly coats your base metal. The thicker the plating and the less exposed the plated item is to friction will determine how long before the plating begins to wear away. Gold plating can also wear down faster depending on the base metal it is bonded to. Plated nickel and copper will wear down faster than plated silver or titanium because gold forms a stronger bond with the latter metals over the former.
Know the cost of materials:
How to know when you are getting a good deal on gold:
When purchasing solid gold jewelry, the most important things to look at are the gold composition, weight, and price. If the piece of jewelry is listed as solid gold, and not vermeil, plated or filled, I start by checking for the item’s listed weight (if it’s available). You can calculate the cost of the actual materials used to make the piece of jewelry if you know how much it weighs in grams. You can use websites like Karat Calculator, toggle the measurement to “grams” and enter the number of grams under the correct karat amount to get the cost of the gold material in the product and use that as a factor to make a determination on whether it is worth purchasing the item.
Lets take a look at this Etsy listing as an example, selling a basic 24K gold ring at around 3.75 grams. If the cost of gold is 58$ per gram today, we multiply 58 x 3.75 = roughly $217 worth of material. With a price of 330$, we are paying a $113 premium (or around 50% markup) to factor in the cost of labor, warehousing, inventory, and so the shop can also keep some profit from the sale. The premium is usually around 200% markup with traditional retailers or even more at luxury jewelers like Tiffany & Co. (500%). I would consider this a decent value purchase.
| Weight (g) | Karat | Est. Value |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 8 Karat | $19.64 |
| 1 | 10 Karat | $24.41 |
| 1 | 12 Karat | $28.54 |
| 1 | 14 Karat | $33.84 |
| 1 | 16 Karat | $35.98 |
| 1 | 18 Karat | $43.91 |
| 1 | 21.6 Karat | $52.45 |
| 1 | 22 Karat | $53.18 |
| 1 | 23 Karat | $55.87 |
| 1 | 24 Karat | $58.67 |
Compare the above ring with this ring from James Allen. This ring is a similar size (3mm vs. 2.7mm) and shape, but has less gold (18K vs 24K) and priced at $410 vs. $330. James Allen does not indicate the weight of the ring, but let’s assume they weigh roughly the same, since they are the same width and style and so we can estimate the cost of materials. 18K at an estimated $43 per gram x 3.75 = $161 cost of materials. With a price of $410, we are paying a $249 premium (or around 250% markup). James Allen does run promotions and deals relatively often, so it could be worth keeping tabs to see if you could get a better deal.
Now, lets take a look at a similar wedding band from Tiffany & Co. A 3mm wide ring of 18K yellow gold at $850. Once again, assuming the weight is the same as the two rings above, the markup comes in at a whopping 520%.
Many websites don’t specify the weights of their jewelry, but it doesn’t hurt to mail customer support to ask them, or to invest in a scale at home and weigh items yourself and return anything which falls below your expectations. Of course there are other things to consider when purchasing gold jewelry, such as the actual design and the quality of the construction. Sometimes a design that you really like may be brand exclusive and leave you with limited options, in which case, a sensible thing to do would be to try to find it second hand, or finding a local jeweler who can replicate the design for you for less.
Most jewelry is made from molds that are either 3D printed, or molded in wax and can be mass manufactured relatively quickly.
But, there are still artisans who take pride in pouring hours into carefully creating pieces from scratch. Prices will also vary based on the scale of operation and the location of production. Hand crafted jewelry made in Canada will cost more than if it was hand crafted in India or Vietnam because the cost of living is much higher in Canada.
Apply the same principles when purchasing silver:
Even though silver is a precious metal, it’s significantly cheaper per gram than gold. (Nearly 2000 times cheaper!) It’s important not to be fooled by marketing. Sometimes a website will sell a gold ring like those above, and offer a silver variant for less. Where a gold ring can be worth 217$ in materials, the same ring in silver would only be worth a dollar or two.
Heavier jewelry isn’t always better:
When it comes to earrings, having lighter gold jewelry can be a huge benefit. For example, very large hoop earrings made of solid gold may make earlobes sag; whereas hollow tubes made of thin gold will weigh your ears down much less. The lighter hoops may also be more comfortable for long-term wear while being visually similar to the solid gold hoops in every other way. The added bonus is that they will certainly cost much less!
Consider your price-per-wear:
Do you wear your jewelry to sleep? Do you shower in it? Do you wear it to the pool or to the gym? If you are the type of person that likes to keep it simple and wear the same pieces over and over, it makes sense to invest in solid gold pieces or gold-filled ones instead of anything plated. They will last you much longer and you can get them wet or sweaty without risk of tarnish or fading.
If you’re constantly wearing something new, and have jewelry to match different outfits for every occasion then it makes sense to purchase less expensive gold plated and silver costume jewelry so that you don’t have to spend too much for each outfit. If taken care of, plated jewelry worn in rotation can stay in good condition for a long time. Just wipe it down after every use and store it with anti-tarnish fabrics.
Ultimately, gold plated jewelry can be a very cost effective option when you are purchasing jewelry that you do not intend to wear daily. Those who have allergic reactions to nickel, copper, or brass, which are common base materials in gold plated jewelry should consider gold fill or gold vermeil alternatives if they are available.